An annual bacchanal that's as fun as it's inclusive
GEOFFREY FINCH
OCT 17, 2024
Montmartre is the most village-like quarter of Paris and that quality lends itself admirably to events like the ‘fête des vendanges’, the annual harvest festival, which lasts four days. With this year’s wine bubbling away in the cellars of the town hall, that effervescence is reflected in the colourful liveliness and ebullient energy of this village fête. Paris’ best known vineyard (the only one where one can currently buy the wine made there - find it at La Musée de Montmartre) is unique in being the focus of a wine festival that draws people from throughout the capital region, as well as from around France.
Surprised tourists often stumble upon it unwittingly as well, drawn in by the crowds, the smells, the animation, and the endless range of things to eat and drink. But that concentration of humanity isn’t for everyone as it’s sometimes very slow-going getting from A to B, with crowds so dense you’re necessarily rubbing shoulders with everyman. But we had to be there last Saturday as we were hosting a group of 32 people from Belgium for a wine walk. We were fortunate in being there early, before it became truly crowded, but there were already very long line-ups to get in.
We took the opportunity to explore the scene, and as a picture is worth a thousand words, following is a sense of the fun and the folly. If you weren’t able to go this year, there’s always next…
Early morning with light crowds and parade
Wine tasting, Clos Montmartre, Parade
Grape scenes, parade, and crowds
The most celebrated of Paris' intra-muros vineyards, the Clos Montmartre epitomises ‘the old Paris’ and contributes greatly to giving one the impression of being in the countryside. The well-tended vines covering the gentle slope of the ‘clos’ encourages a certain nostalgia for the old Montmartre, glimpses of which are still very much present today.
To share those glimpses and discover the wine history of Montmartre, its iconic vineyard, and taste Paris in your glass, you can join us on any of our regularly scheduled Clos Montmartre wine walks (Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays at 3:30pm).
And if you’re in to the macabre and the spooky, and a chillingly good time, we’re hosting a special wine walk for Hallowe’en...
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My book, ‘The Hidden Vineyards of Paris’ (reviewed in Jancis Robinson’s wine blog, the Wine Economist, National Geographic Traveler UK, UK Telegraph) is also available at ‘The Red Wheelbarrow Bookshop’ at 11 rue de Medicis, 75006 Paris. If you haven’t yet discovered this gem of a bookshop, now’s your chance. Open every day!
Wine Walks!
For more information, click on the underlined links:
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Short on time? This one’s for you.
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